Old is gold: The Croatian town that’s putting its centuries-old trades and crafts first

“I make this jewelry with my husband,” the woman donning a vibrant, floating sundress explains as she latches the intricate clasp of a bracelet around my wrist, the green quartz-colored gemstones glinting in the sunlight. “He made this one you’re wearing,” she added, gesturing to a table within the billowing gazebo adorned with cardinal red necklaces, earrings and bracelets. “Those, too. All of our other jewels are sourced internationally, but the red coral is Croatian.”

On the central Adriatic coastline, Trogir is a small island town with a population of just over 10,000. Founded by Greek colonists in the third century, the city has preserved its patchworked identity of Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, its cobbled streets and winding alleyways firmly intact.

But it’s not just the municipality that has remained unchanged through the centuries: So have the trades of the town. Welders, musicians, designers and jewelers—like the one I met who’s set up shop on the waterfront—have lived and traded in the region for centuries, contributing to Trogir’s enduring tradition of craft and trade work.

The mid-morning sun was stifling, even in late September, the antithesis of the reddening leaves and blustering winds I am used to at this time of year. Dialects and people overlapped as visitors meandered their way around the ancient alleyways, each step merging the modern with the medieval.

In an effort to unite Trogir’s past and present worlds—as well as tackle dwindling tourism figures which only worsened during the pandemic as visitors flocked to Croatian hotspots Dubrovnik, Hvar and Split—a new slogan, ‘Marked by Masters,’ was unveiled by the city’s mayor, Ante Bilić, in 2019. Its objective was, and is, to pay homage to the tradition of artisanal craftsmanship encased in the city walls—and on the exterior of Saint Lawrence’s Cathedral in the main plaza, where the umber-colored ink of centuries-old motifs representing biblical events including Noah’s Ark refuses to budge.

“The city wouldn’t be as it is without all of these people producing throughout the years. That’s why we say the town is like a museum that people are living in.”

- Ana Jakić, tour guide and Trogir native

Conserving Trogir’s dense culture was something Anja Bauer, owner and creative director of branding agency Fabular, and senior brand consultant Petra Despot Domljanović were keen to emphasize within Trogir’s identity. “It was just astounding that such a small city has these people,” says Bauer. “‘Marked by Masters’ came about because we wanted to testify to the city’s masters—whether they used to live or work here, as well as those who are still present in Trogir.”

“Trogir’s mastership today is interspersed with where these craftsmen lived. It’s present everywhere in the city,” she adds. “When you look at the beautiful sacred architecture or little courtyards, you can see the marks and drawings carved into them.”

My aversion to heights peaked as we climbed the stairs of Saint Lawrence Cathedral’s tower. As we ascended, the stone steps began to narrow, becoming so steep and small that I felt as if I was climbing a ladder to heaven. At the crown of the basilica, though, the panoramic view swept across the town, the beaches, and the horizon.

Through lattice windows we saw Trogir’s main plaza, hosting its clock tower with gilded hands and statues of Jesus Christ and Saint Sebastian above the entryway. Its adjoining loggia, built in the 15th century by Italian sculptor Nicolas of Florence and Croatia’s own Ivan Meštrović, offers both shade and frequent performances by klapa singers, an acapella tradition endemic to Dalmatia. To the left stands the Rector’s Palace, featuring a grand, gothic-inspired staircase by builder Matija Gojković in its interior courtyard.

“Trogir is under UNESCO protection and has lots of beautiful handmade items, especially works by sculptors and painters,” says Ana Jakić, the Trogir native who’s been a local tour guide for 17 years and showcased the town’s offerings to us on our hour-long walking tour.

“There were also blacksmiths, barrel-makers, men and women who produced woolen clothes and leather goods,” she tells us. “The lace found in the tower of St Nicholas Church is still made by nuns in the convent. The mayor and his team wanted to implement this modern brand to preserve old-fashioned methods.”

By nurturing long-standing relationships with its artisans, Trogir has solidified itself as a hub for specialist skills to thrive, while maintaining mass appeal. But it’s not happened without hardship.

The city’s only leatherwork and shoemaker, Tonći Parčina, is a third-generation artisan, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, who started learning the trade in 1915 and opened the business in 1932. “Some trades have adapted to the times,” he says. “Others have unfortunately disappeared. I find it difficult to accept life without manual labor; crafts built this city.”

“Maybe it’s a modern-day person who’s come from abroad to live in Trogir and they’re a master programmer or DJ. We’re not only talking about the marks of craftsmen, but masters of all skills.”

- Anja Bauer, creative director

As of May 2023, the district has seen a 60 percent increase in arrivals and a 33 percent rise in overnight stays compared to the same period last year. You can feel the buzz; the Central Square teems with tourist groups and locals alike, admiring the town’s rich blend of influences, buying items from local vendors, and sampling one of Dalmatia’s regional delicacy, rafioli, a baked shortbread cookie filled with almonds, dusted with icing sugar and served with a dollop of cultural pride.

Almost every church, coat of arms, town hall and courthouse exemplifies the impact of Trogir’s artisans. “All of Trogir’s masters are connected,” says Jakić. “The city wouldn’t be as it is without all of these people producing throughout the years. That’s why we say the town is like a museum that people are living in.”

As much as Trogir’s efforts have focused on preserving the historic city’s identity, Bauer stresses that the influence of modern artisans is also strongly encouraged. “Maybe it’s a modern-day person who’s come from abroad to live in Trogir and they’re a master programmer or DJ,” she says. “We’re not only talking about the marks of craftsmen, but masters of all skills.”

Like its constructions, the businesses of Trogir have become equally amalgamated, brimming with both legacy and contemporary ventures. “We have independently run our workshop for over 90 years,” notes Parčina. “Crafts are a core part of life in Trogir, that’s why it’s important they exist in all possible forms. If that makes the city and guests happy, I’m even happier.”

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This trip was based on Intrepid’s Croatia: Sibenik & the Kornati Islands itinerary. Find out more about it here and find out more about Croatia through Explore Croatia‘s (the national tourist board) mobile app.

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